Jumping into 3D Scanning

Jumping into 3D Scanning

When I jumped into 3D scanning I wanted to try a common method of using a kinect instead of purchasing a 3D scanner. Using a friends first generation kinect I held it up by placing it in between a drawer so it wouldn’t move. Since this was my first attempt at 3D scanning and I was doing this alone I used a swiveling desk chair and slowly spun around to capture all angles and points.

Scanning myself

To start off i ran into an issue with lighting and speed. To fix the lighting issue i angled my phone as a flashlight to point at me next to the kinect. That surprisingly worked well to capture smaller details.

The software I initially used was SkaKinect, I also tried ReconstructMe. The best user friendly software i found was SkaKinect but sadly a lot of the features are pay-walled. With that said if you are looking to use 3D scanning in any business, SkaKinect with a generation 2 kinect is the best option. If you happen to be using Windows 8 or Windows 10, I found that Microsoft 3D Scan is the best for convenience and easy for most to pick up.

Cleaning the model

Most of the time when you finish a scan you will have fragmentation and other forms you should remove on or around the model, using Meshmixer I turned the model into a solid object, since initially it was hollow. One of the more tedious things from cleaning the model was how the kinect captured hair. Where I had to smooth out the top of my 3D scan.

Printing the model

Once the cleanup process was done it was time to set it up to be printed. Using Hatchbox White ABS at 0.20mm it took about 2 hours to print. The model was a pretty simplistic model to print since there were no extreme overhangs.

If i were to do this again I would use the generation 2 kinect instead of the first generation. One the major issues with the older kinect was the lack of detail on the head, specifically the ears and nose. But for a scanner that can cost $20 – $50 Its unbeatable.


Teaching a 3D Printing / 3D Scanning Class to middle school students

Teaching a 3D Printing / 3D Scanning Class to middle school students

3D printing was a locked down industry that up until recently has its chance to expand into new industries and education. The fact 3D printing can be used as a easy and cheap way to prototype designs openly will create more passionate students for the engineering field. When kids get to see a thing they just made turned into a physical product within a few hours it will inspire them to think more logistical by figuring out solutions to problems they see in their daily life.

I wanted to teach this class to see the reception of 3D printing and how it will impact the future generations for when this is more readily available.

Starting the class


To start off the class I needed to explain the basics of 3D printing and modeling for 3D printing and what to think about when they design models. I printed out 3 Marvin keychain models at different angles to show the effects of gravity and points of adhesion to the heated platform.

Once they understood how they should make the models, I taught them the basics of TinkerCAD by AutoDesk. Since the main point of this class was to teach them the basics of 3D printing. Along with this to print the models in front of them, once they saw the printer in action they jumped right onto the computers to make their designs.

Here are a few of the models some of the class made during the time I had them modeling designs

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3D Scanning

After I got them to design the models and watch them print them, I gave them to the creators of each model, On the final day of the class I wanted to show them how you can take a design from the real world and convert that into a model that is printable. So i began this class by showing them how a Kinect sensor works. Once that was done anyone who wanted could chose to be turned into a 3D scan.

Scanning each person by setting them up in a chair and moving around them to properly scan them. Once that was done I printed out each person with White PLA at 0.22mm layer height

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Once the class was over the students had a basic understanding of the principles of 3D design and printing, Understanding how to change out filament on a printer, understanding infill and layer height. This being the first time teaching any kind of class was an interesting opportunity. If i were to do this again I would want to extend the length of the class and have more predefined rhetoric to use.





Carpal flexural deformity brace – 3D Print

Carpal flexural deformity brace – 3D Print

This project was an interesting one, I was approached by a friend that was curious whether or not 3D printing could help with their dog that had carpal flexural deformity in the front two legs. So I did some research into what causes this and designed a model i thought would work for this specific dog to keep the joint immobile so while the dog grows it keeps the joint in place.

Designing the model

Once I did the research it was time to take the steps I needed to design the model. Using the measurements i took from the dogs legs I designed it so the joint has a small pocket and its rounded shape was to prevent the dog from injuring itself with the brace.

On the inside I wanted to make sure the dog would not scrape itself or the plastic would harm the dog so I lined the inside with a soft cloth padding and so they can adjust the model over time of the dogs growth I added the Velcro where you can extend how far it goes.

Testing the comfort


After I finished the model, I prepared it for the dog. I wanted to make sure the model wasn’t going to hurt the dog. So i tested the comfort by wearing it on my finger for a few hours and tested movement, comfort and irritability


On a side note that was an interesting touch to the whole project, I stopped at Starbucks to grab a coffee and the employee working noticed the brace on my finger and asked what it was for. I explained what I was doing and how it was for a dog with carpal flexural deformity, they explained how they once had a dog with carpal flexural deformity. The dog had to get put down from the severity of the deformity but they were glad to see me making this brace for another dog.

After this i headed back home and prepared the design for the dog. I headed out to give it to them and see how it works, luckily it helped them in this case. It was a temporary solution but it did the job and helped the dog get on track to fixing this deformity.


Magnetic Foot Bone Anatomical Model

Magnetic Foot Bone Anatomical Model

This was a project I started out of an incident that happened where my dad injured his ankle and had to get surgery. So as a gift for the doctor I wanted to make something insanely unique.

Modifying the model

Using the model DrGlassDPM made I opened it up in MeshMixer to separate each bone and save them as the corresponding bone name. Once I finished this I scaled up the model to be roughly the size of my own foot.


Once the model was separated I began to print it out of white PLA at a 0.22mm layer height.  The print took 2 days to complete all the parts, the pieces were made to connect to each other with small circular magnets that I would glue into the ends of the joints.

One of the most interesting parts about this entire project was needing to learn the anatomy of a foot to correctly make the model, figuring the layout of each bone to properly connect them with the magnets, since I haven’t seen that done with many other models available to purchase.

The issue I ran into was with the strengths of the joints, The bigger bone models could not be held by the magnets so I had to scrap that idea for the bigger bones. The magnets are still used in the Cuneiforms and Phalanges.

I wanted to try and create a easily accessible and low cost model so if people wanted to make a foot model for their offices or for fun they could.  The cost for the print materials alone was $10.50 then $7.00 for the magnets.


Connecting the bones

The next step after printing the model was to connect them together using the magnets and glue for the bigger pieces, measuring the diameter of the magnet I found a drill bit to work with the models. Once the pieces were drilled I glued the magnets into the slots and pieced it together to work

And once this was completed, I had a fully modeled foot connected by magnets. This project in total took about a week to complete, and the final cost was around a low cost of $17.50 which in comparison to other models is a pretty good cost.

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Wrist brace – 3D Print

Wrist brace – 3D Print

Once in awhile you hurt yourself from doing something ill advised. Well, that is what happened to me when I was longboarding down a hill and turned wrong and fell right on my hand. Luckily 3D printing opens up a opportunity for some relief with this!

This design was not modeled by me, the full credit for the design goes to piuLAB – Wrist brace. The only modification I did to this model was around the backside of the model where i cut it to fit my print bed. The model was printed out of gray Hatchbox PLA at 0.2mm layer height.

The steps I took to fit it around my hand were simple, putting the model in hot water and wrapping it around my arm under a cloth so it can fit perfectly for long term use.

This model works best with Velcro straps. I took thin Velcro straps to keep it on my arm while i sleep and move, The best thing about a open model like this is the cost efficiency and the feasibility. When you can injure yourself and have a solution within a few hours it shows the potential that 3D printing can have in local areas.

Club Obsidian Logo – 3D Print

Club Obsidian Logo – 3D Print

One of the first projects i jumped into when i began working with 3D printing, I wanted to take a 2D Drawing and make it into a 3D design for a wall plaque.

The model


I began this project by using the original logo as a reference and outlining the entire logo on separate layers so i can extend any part I need.  Once it was outlined I extended out the text to the height I wanted.

The difficult part of this model was finding a good curve for the blades on the sword since in the original it was covered by the text.

Printing the logo


After i made the logo i wanted to take it a step further, So I decided to do two things with this model, The first thing was to print it, I printed it in white Hatchbox PLA at a 0.2mm layer height.

The model printed perfectly so I could put it on the wall, now that this was done I began working on the second part of my project.

Turning this logo into a mold I can use for casting different materials. In this case I wanted to make it into a chocolate mold.

Creating a negative of the logo

Wn7xeuyOnce I had the logo on fusion 360 I could take that and do anything i needed to do with it. First step was to create a solid cube to put the logo into then fill it with a tool in fusion. But I wanted to make this model easily obtainable. So I made it printable with food safe semi flex plastic or Ninjaflex plastic.

On the model you can see around the base of the logo I created a platform so when you cast it out of chocolate or ice you can easily remove it.

This model was successful but due to the tight corners around the base of the sword and the text it would break apart into multiple pieces.